An Absinthe Minded FAQ - Part 5; The Absinthe Ritual

Photo credit: John Mays

Q: Having acquired the absinthe and all the accouterments, what's next? Isn't there fire involved?

R: Coughs delicately. No, we call the Absinthe Heresy.

But first, some mechanics.

Essential oils from the herbal macerations are dissolved in  absinthe during distillation. Ice water is added to the absinthe before serving, to emulsify with the essential oils. This is what creates the "louche", the characteristic swirling opalescent cloudiness that defines a good absinthe. Simultaneously, the essential oils release a bouquet of fragrances - floral, herbal, spicy, honey. The fragrance will  fill the glass, and sometimes the room. Fragrance is considered part of the experience; enjoy it.

The louche should not be too thin nor too thick. Too thin is typical of an inferior absinthe; too thick would indicate presence of a gum or resin, which is how some low quality or faux absinthes get a louche, because there's not enough anise oil in the mix to do it properly. This is, by the way, an "authentic" adulteration, as it was used in the 19th century too.

The trick to getting a nice louche is to add ice water slowly to the absinthe. If you have a lot of control, a carafe will do the trick. If you've gone "all in" and bought an absinthe fountain, your finesse counts a little less.

So, let's prepare some absinthe. 

Photo credit: John Mays

You will need your glass and spoon, ice water in whatever delivery container you have acquired, and some sugar cubes. Packages of absinthe sugar are available on line, and I do recommend those little green-wrapped cubes. Gourmet refined or raw sugar is also available in cube form, and the raw sugar in particular will add a different note to your prepared absinthe. However, they are larger in size compared to the absinthe sugar and they don't melt as quickly or thoroughly.

Start by pouring an ounce of absinthe into your glass. If you have a glass with a measured dose or bubble, that's easy. If not, you'll want to add a jigger to your bar.

Place the sugar cube on the spoon, and lay the spoon across the glass. Sugar is, by the way, optional, and should be added to taste. If you prefer sweetness, use an entire cube. If you like less, feel free to cut the cube to a smaller size. Sugar balance is important; it tempers the bite of the wormwood, but it can also mask flavors.

If you are using a carafe to deliver the water, start by wetting the sugar cube. Then set down your carafe for a few seconds - up to a minute - to give the sugar a head start on melting. If you're using gourmet sugar cubes, this is a good idea, even if you have a fountain.

Now start to drizzle the ice water over the sugar (from the carafe or fountain) in a thin steady stream. Watch the louche magically develop. Inhale the fragrance.

The typical ratio of absinthe to water is 1:5, or one ounce of absinthe to five ounces of water, resulting in a 6 ounce drink and about 12% or 14% alcohol - comparable to a glass of wine. If you want it a bit stronger, use three or four ounces of water.

Coordinate the speed of pouring with the dissolution rate of the sugar. This might take some practice.

Using the absinthe spoon, stir the glass briefly to mix in any undissolved sugar grains in the bottom of the glass.

L'Heure Verte est arrivée!

Sip slowly, allow the mix to slip across your tongue and enjoy the sensations, the fragrances, and the flavors. Notice how the fragrance has changed with the addition of water and sugar. 

But what about that burning sugar part?

Pointless, dangerous, and heretical. 

It was an "innovation" designed to enhance the allure of absinthe, to underscore the illicit drug image, a marketing ploy that does nothing more to the absinthe than to impart the flavor of burned sugar to it, while burning off some of the essential oils that are critical to the flavor. It's not traditional, unless you count the past 20 years of Czech practice. 

Next time: how to evaluate an absinthe.