An Absinthe Minded FAQ - part 1; What is "real" absinthe?

Photo Credit: EvilJohn Mays

In yet another departure from my usual parsimonious ruminations, today I'm going to start a series of posts on the subject of Absinthe.

Absinthe is of course one of the defining spirits of the Victorian era, and specifically of La Belle Epoch - the almost parallel time period across the Channel in France. The social climate was optimistic, and characterized by a blooming arts community, technological and scientific innovation, and peace in the region. Absinthe was especially popular amongst the Parisian artists and writers, and being counter-cultural, was almost categorically opposed by social conservatives and the establishment.

I'd call absinthe the consummate Steampunk liquor.

Which is the reason why the Denver Victorian & Steampunk Society hosts Absinthe Minded a couple times a year, for the Steampunk community. In true Retro-punk fashion, we are for an evening, re-creating the Bohemian atmosphere complete with artists and writers, tinkerers, mad scientists, and absinthe. Our fall Absinthe Minded is at MileHiCon, the Denver literary science fiction convention. And as it's quickly approaching, I'm of a mind to put some information out there about absinthe and its surrounding culture. And I might even have a small stack of Steampunk books as door prizes.

Let's start with some basics, and subsequent posts to this blog will continue the theme through the end of October.

Q: There are a lot of bottles on the shelf at the liquor store. What is "real" absinthe, and what isn't?

R: Authentic, "traditional" absinthe is comparable to antique 19th century absinthe. It is technically an aperitif spirit, not a liqueur, and is intended to be diluted in ice water before drinking, optionally with sugar. Authentic absinthe must be distilled with the required herbs, is unsweetened, is at least 90 proof, uses Artemisia absinthium as the main ingredient, and as such must have a characteristic anise and wormwood flavor. There are very good domestic varieties of absinthe, made using traditional methods. There are also faux absinthes.

Distillation is required to separate water-soluble bitter absinthins from the desired essential oils. Herbs and a neutral spirit are macerated together and then distilled, and most absinthes undergo a secondary herbal maceration, from which the color is developed. Some high quality absinthe does not have a second herbal maceration, and is classed as blanche or la Bleue. Absinthe should not be artificially colored.

Faux absinthes vary considerably. Artificially colored absinthes are suspect, and there should never be sweeteners added. Be very cautious about the so-called Czech or "Bohemian" styles, which sometimes feature lurid colors. (Authentic absinthe is usually sold in colored bottles to protect the chlorophyll content, and thus color.) Gums and resins might be added to faux absinthe to simulate louche; they may use flavorings rather than herbs to create the flavors and fragrances. The home-made kits are not absinthe, since real absinthe requires distillation, and they're usually unappetizingly bitter besides.

In general, you're going to get what you pay for. A bottle of authentic absinthe will cost you around $70; however, consider that a single bottle goes a long way.

Next time: Local sources and recommendations.