Rummaging: The Thrift Store

One of the better Rummaging Enterprises is your local thrift store. In the Denver area, we're lucky to have the ARC stores peppered throughout the metrosprawl. Their prices are a little better than Goodwill stores, and they have the added advantage of having most of their inventory on a 50% discount on Saturdays.

Rummaging requires strategies to be a success. You're not going to pop in and find the perfect eyelet bedskirt every Saturday. It takes frequent trips, and the focus to keep looking.

• Be methodical. Have a routine; for instance, consistently check the same categories of goods every time you walk into the store. I'm always looking for serving dishes for Teas and Absinthe Minded parties, so I start in the glassware sections. There are often good fabrics in the curtains (home dec weights are usually better for historically-inspired clothing), and I look at bedskirts for embroidered or eyelet ruffles. I'm always looking for belts - leather, ornate - and I check out the scarves and hats, too. 
• Make an afternoon of it and hit two or three stores, for the best selection. 
• Know what you're looking for, the "hand" or feel of the fabric or good clothing labels. Use your smart phone if you need to do a little research. 
• Saturday sales will make the best use of your thrifting budget.
• Thrift store purchases are often not refundable if you want to return something. However, they do give you store credit if you return unused items within their guidelines. 
• Never wait to buy. It won't be there if you go back later. Conversely, don't wait until the week before the con to start shopping. 
• Put it in your cart if you even think that you'll want it. You can put it back later if you change your mind. Also keep an eye on your cart; I've had stuff disappear from out of it. 

The possibilities at a thrift store are virtually endless. If you're just beginning to assemble clothing, the thrift store is great place to start. There are distinctive profiles that say "Victorian", and you'll want to look for basic separates that communicate the impression. We're going to focus on the 1890's for women, because the profile is fairly easy to achieve with modern clothing. On the other hand, men's styles haven't really changed in the past 150 years, so the thrift store is a great place to start for the gentlemen. Then add the dress accessories; they really make the impression and contribute to the neo-Victorian authenticity of the outfit.

Layering is your friend

One key to the Steampunk look is layers - layers of skirts, jacket over vest over frilly top. Hike up long skirts to reveal shorter frilly skirts, or <gasp> the hems of your lacy drawers. Stockings add to that layered effect. Find valances in the curtains section to add a top layer (or three) at your hips.

Pants are fine for Steampunk women (and men). Layer skinny brown trousers under a pair of great boots. And then tie a bit of scarf around the ankle. Those thrifted belts add layers around your waist, and then use them to hold holsters, pouches, and your gloves. 

Gloves were de rigueur for Victorians, and if your archetype is all about working with greasy gears, a pair of fingerless leather gloves are simply functional. Again, layer them with a bit of scarf around the wrist. This is a great place to add a zap of color to the earthy Steampunk palette. 

With this in mind, let's look at some specifics. 

Ladies 1890s  

Profile

• Long skirts that flare from the waist to a wide hem, in pinstripes, plaids, or solids. The front of the skirt was usually flat, with the fullness at the back center. Skirts with a casing waistline might be able to be modded. Typical colors are deep or bright; avoid pastels and most prints. Hem ruffles are a plus. Layer light colored skirts under dark skirts and tuck up the overskirts for a rakish look. Pro tip: buy skirts a few sizes too large. Gather the fullness into the back to create the fashionable silhouette.
• White cotton tops, typically long-sleeved, although short or puffy sleeves are fine for Steampunk. Even sleeveless, if you're daring. Look for details like full sleeve tops, pintucks, ruffles and lace. High collars look great with a necktie of several sorts; mandarin and wingtip collars are authentic. The visual weight of the top should be at the shoulder level and trim around the bustline and waist.  

Dress accessories

• Waistcoat - similar to men's, the typical style is high collar without points at the front waist. However, ladies have more leeway as to styling. Consider changing out buttons for quick bling. 
• Jacket - Bolero jackets were popular, as were Eaton jackets - waist-length, full at the shoulders. There are some out there that have some militaristic details, that can be easily modded - or molded - to Steampunk. Look also for "princess" lines - shaping that fits the jacket to the body. Peplums and ruffles are a bonus. 
• Neckwear - women wore string ties and cravats, both of which are frequently seen in the men's section at the thrift store. 
• Hats - Victorian ladies usually wore hats much higher on the head than we do; smaller size hats will work great. Also, boaters were popular for sporting. Look in the men's department for pit helmets or newsboy caps, too. 
• Jewelry - speaking of cravats, cravat pins are graceful additions. Look for short stick pins in the jewelry case. Necklaces, rings, and earrings were also commonly worn. 
• Gloves - anything goes, but I'd avoid shiny stretchy fabrics. They look too modern. 
• Handkerchiefs - you'll find handkerchiefs in the table linens; apparently they're easy to confuse with napkins. And if you do find linen napkins - real linen, not cotton or poly - let me know. 
• Belts - real leather looks best, and pre-owned looks well-worn. Look for anything fancy, with studs or braiding or cutouts for interest. Check the men's department. Sling them below your waist, or cinch about your ribcage for a corseted look. Belts were used for holding things other than pants 100 years ago; I have a holster for mine, and also tuck a fan in my belt. Lay your gloves over your belt when you're not wearing them, or tuck overskirts up into belts. (I recommend strategically placed pins for either of these arrangements.)
• Shoes - pointed toes, slight to moderate heel. Personally, I dislike zippers, but sometimes the right boot comes along with a zipper and what are you going to do? Riding boots look great and are easy on the feet for a day of con walking. I highly recommend spending some of what you're saving at the thrift store on an excellent pair of insoles. 
• Reticule - the lady's purse. Usually small, ornate and lacy or beaded. You're more likely nowadays to find a small leather shoulder bag in an industrial style. 
• Walking stick - I haven't seen any of these at the thrift stores, but it can't hurt to look, right?

Men's Genera-Victorian 

Profile

• Flat-front trousers, in pinstripes, plaids, or solids in slim profiles. Look for dress slacks. Wool slacks are great. Cotton twills or chinos are perfect for the working Steampunk, and easy to add lampasses to for the militaristic look. They can be larger than your usual waist size, if you want to do the authentic thing and wear them with suspenders. Remove the belt loops and sew on buttons; clip-on suspenders are a later invention. Trousers were worn above the waistline. 
• Tuxedo shirt, with wing-tip collar. 
• A vest or waistcoat; it could be plain or fancy, single- or double-breasted. Victorian vests had higher necklines and didn't usually have the front center points. A gentleman's pants waistline was never visible. 

Dress accessories

• Coats - long duster-style for the dashing airship captain look; shorter suit-coat looks for more sedate wear. Avoid anything with shoulder pads; they were really popular 40 years ago, so they're all over the thrift stores. Or simply remove them. The cut will still be generous, but not supported. 
• Hats - you'll find pageboy caps at the thrift stores. For a good top hat, you'll likely need to buy new, and on-line. 
• Neckwear - cravats are typical and often available. Narrow ties were also popular, but avoid the modern tie.  
• Suspenders - find suspenders with button loops and as little elastic as possible. 
• Jewelry - cravat pins and rings were common. 
• Gloves - standard white gloves for dress; any number of other styles are likely for gents. Fingerless gloves are easily created from normal leather gloves - just cut off the top half of the fingers. 
• Belts - real leather looks best, and pre-owned looks well-worn. They're not for holding your trousers up; sling them below your waist, and thread a holster or pouch on them Fold your gloves over them when your not wearing them. Use several at once. 
• Shoes - look for pointed toe simple dress shoes. 
• Handkerchiefs - an indispensable gent's accessory. I recommend Ross stores for men's hankies. I've picked up monogrammed ones at Ross for the guys. But you might find them in the thrift store, like the ladies versions, in the table linens. Inexplicable, but there you are. 

Some other stuff that can be modded

• Almost any garment with buttons can benefit from some new buttons. Look for them at the fabric stores, but be sure to have the coupons or get in on sales. Or find clothing at the thrift store that is only good for its buttons and discard the garment. Buttons are expensive. 
• Bedskirts are an excellent source for flounces. A twin bedskirt has 5 or 6 yards of flounce. Look for embroidered white ruffles, or eyelet. They run about $8. 
• If you're up to making your own, curtain panels are a good source for yardage - especially if sets are available. Cotton twills are usually available and make good skirts. Sheers are also good for draperies and graceful puffs. Occasionally, embroidered silk shows up which has found its way into cravats and long scarves. 
• Speaking of curtains, a good number have beaded or tasseled trims that can be removed and re-sourced as trims. 
• Sheer long-sleeved tops - even if they don't fit - work great for glovettes; just cut off the sleeves as far above the cuffs as your want the length to be. Hand-hem the top edge. You may need to narrow the sleeves to fit your arm's profile. 
• Jackets are easily shortened to bolero-length, if you're handy with a sewing machine. 

Belle epoch beverage on a budget

A typical Pontarlier absinthe glass, with a reservoir and
faceting. 8 ounces capacity and 5.5" tall. Generally
available at between $16 and $20.  

Really, for a hand-blown - and possibly etched or faceted - authentic absinthe glass, 20 bucks doesn't seem excessive. However, being neither heiress of nor married to an airship magnate, I must set my sights a bit more to the reasonable - and especially when organizing an upcoming absinthe tasting at which a number of guests are expected.

During the heyday of absinthe, the glassware used was somewhat less prescribed than one might think. Barware that was used for absinthe fell into two categories, glasses used only for absinthe and glasses used for both absinthe and other drinks. Additionally, glassware used in bistros was by necessity rather sturdy due to rough use, so light, delicate glasses are not suitable.

Typical styles of general purpose glassware include the Mazagran, the Lyonaisse, and the Chopes Yvonne. All of these are footed forms, with a short and often ornate stem.  The bowl is funnel-shaped, with almost uniformly straight sides that do not narrow at the lip.

A pressed glass or depression glass style of water glass.
The shape is lovely and the oak leaf design will play
nicely with the swirling absinthe.
5" tall and 8 ounce capacity. This glass cost me $.75. 

Of course, as the ritual of absinthe developed, specialized barware became increasingly common. Cordon, reservoir, and Pontarlier glasses all are designed so the correct amount of absinthe - the dose - can be measured into the glass without an intermediary measuring tool. These are elegant, specialized glasses, with a price tag to match. 

Fortunately, the shapes of the old general purpose bistro glasses are still manufactured, usually designated as "water" glasses. Even more fortuitously, stemmed water glasses seem to be superfluous table wares in today's increasingly casual dining habits. The result is that they frequently turn up in thrift stores. And thus I have started building my collection of bar ware suitable for serving absinthe.

This is an okay shape, similar to a Torsade, but without
the twist at the bottom. Arguably a little large at 12
ounces capacity, but I really like the "gem" on the stem;
it's placed nicely for holding. 6.5" tall.
A buck each at the thrift store. 

Here are some glasses that I've picked up recently. Most would fall into the "general purpose barware" category. I'm looking for the typical funnel shapes, between 5" and 7" tall, with a short and sometimes ornate stem. The capacity must accommodate the "dose" and the three to five parts of ice water which is required to release the oils from the alcohol and create the cocktail - so between 4 and 8 ounces.

I've had to make a couple of concessions to modern sensibilities in that many of the available glasses have etching on them in floral patterns. Considering that absinthe is an herbal spirit, it doesn't seem inappropriate.

The glass ball on the stem is not hollow, which is the
only material difference between this glass and the
typical Pontarlier profile. Large capacity
at 12 ounces, 7" tall. 

This glass was the real "find". Not only is it the right shape,
but the bottom of the bowl - up to the top indentation - is exactly an ounce; it may have not been manufactured for absinthe, but it's a reservoir glass. It's 6.5" high and has a 10 ounce
capacity. $2.99 each at the thrift store. 

I think I've got enough, but there are one or two more thrift stores that I haven't yet relieved of absinthe wares. In other thrift store findings, I've picked up a footed crystal flat wide sugar dish and an amber glass vase for holding spoons. But you'll have to come to the tasting to see those.