I hate copying patterns.
I've spent several hours this weekend copying the Patterns of History 1876 Bustle Dress pattern. I lover everything about this dress, from the v-neck embellishments to the longer bodice, and the longer overskirt with it's fullness swept into a demi-train. I'm not sure how I feel about the back of the overskirt; I might modify that into a long pleat, but we'll see.
This particular pattern was published in 1975, taken from a dress in the collection of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin, for which they have a complete province. The patterns for the foundational skirt, overskirt, and bodice are fairly conventional, and in some ways similar to more recent patterns. However, I feel like the more recent publications miss some important points, largely that the skirts of 1876 have very different supports than those of 1874. 1876 was a transition between the Early Bustle profile and the Natural Form profile. By 1876, bodices were longer, ending in some cases at hip level. Overskirts were also longer. The hip and derrière areas were not yet tightly fitted, and the high bustle of the early 70's had given way to a more moderate derrière with fullness transferred to below knee-level. My impression is supported by a number of fashion plates from 1876 - and this pattern.
Due to its age, this pattern isn't widely available. I felt pretty lucky to get one from a seller on Etsy; it was in mint condition, sealed. The pattern is printed on 6 large sheets of sturdy paper. Being 50 years old, that paper is set in its folds and discolored a bit on the edges. I do not cut patterns; interestingly, the directions with this pattern recommend not cutting, but tracing the pieces.
I use Pellon Tru-Grid 810 for tracing. Some searching on Ebay turned up a bolt at about the same price as those cheap JoAnn days. Tru-Grid is printed with a 1" grid, which I like for maintaining grain on the fashion fabric. Because it is a non-woven fabric, it is a bit awkward to lay over the creases of the paper, and I've been using weights and yard sticks to tame the chaos.
Why do I hate copying patterns? It's tedious. I feel that I can't get a perfect copy. The Pellon always moves. In the case of this pattern, it is taking all my patience and perseverance to get a decent copy. Okay, okay - a couple of millimeters of difference in a line won't make a significant difference, but I'm picky.
On the other hand, copying patterns means that I retain a pristine copy for later use, for reference or if I need to make a different size. It's a good thing, and so I persist.
The Patterns of History pattern comes in single sizes. The one I was able to get is a size 14.
I am not.
I will have to grade this pattern which means that the copy that I'm making now will not be the copy that I cut out. I worry about multiplying errors. This pattern does not provide measurements for a size 14, so I don't have any idea about what measurements it's based on. However the waistbands are 27", which means that I need start out adding 14" to all circumferences. Good thing that I have lots of mock-up fabric.
One other benefit of tracing a pattern is to build familiarity with the pattern. For instance, this pattern makes use of facings, which I believe are ahistoric, not to mention being unnecessarily fiddly. I will be flat-lining instead. This pattern also uses a built-in "cincher" in place of a corset; of course I'll be dispensing with this work-around designed for the modern woman. One difference from more recent publications is that this pattern has 5/8" seam allowances. I'm used to 1/2".
The other notable thing about this pattern is that the ruffles are all cut on the bias. Because I'm using striped fabric, this was my plan all along, but to have them in pattern pieces is ... interesting. Looking at the pattern pieces for the ruffles and ruches, I can tell that there are some interesting embellishment effects that I may or may not use.
It's a bit like a Janet Arnold drawing of an extant dress, without the handy grid underlaying. I'm copying all the parts that I'm likely to use, but since I'm not cutting the pattern I'll have it for reference if anything goes awry.
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