An Absinthe Minded FAQ - Part 4; Absinthiana

Q: I've purchased an impressive-looking bottle, and I'd like to do a respectable presentation. What else do I need to serve absinthe?

My Pontarlier reservoir glass

R: While there are no actual requirements beyond a pretty glass and an absinthe spoon, there are myriad available examples of each out there - and more. Let's first look at these two basics and then the other absinthiana that will complete your set. And some Cheapside sources!

The Glass

The first item that you'll want to look for is a good absinthe glass.

Historically, absinthe was served in multi-purpose bar ware, stemmed water or wine glasses that worked equally well with other drinks, and would stand up to heavy use. As absinthe-specific glasses were developed, the absinthe makers started using barware to advertise their brands, adding logos to virtually every item of absinthiana. As glassware specialized, the classic shape developed, with a dosing bubble or line to assist in measurement.

The typical absinthe glass is a funnel shape with a short, often ornate stem. Glasses are often decorated or faceted to reflect light into or through the louche. A good glass will cost you as much a $20, although they can occasionally be found in thrift stores [1] for far less. Mine is a finer quality glass than would be found in a Belle Epoch bistro; it's a delicate glass, probably mouth-blown. La Rochere makes a variety of lovely sturdy machine-molded absinthe glasses. To start, there's the basic Pontarlier, a classic shape with a dosing bubble. La Rochere also makes an ornate absinthe glass in the Versailles pattern, with a dosing line rather than a bubble. There's a carafe (which I'll talk about in a bit) in the Versailles pattern.

There are other typical shapes. La Rochere's torsade is one of the most frequently seen glasses in Impressionist paintings. (One of the great things about La Rochere is that they're 500 years old - some of the glassware that they make today is unchanged from previous centuries.) They also make the Lyonnais, another pattern that also has a matching carafe.

Luckily, the funnel shape is still in production by a lot of other manufacturers as "water" glasses. IKEA's Pokal wine glass is a perfect shape and size and it's about $1.50. Water glasses are also readily available from your local thrift store. Look for the funnel shape, clear glass, no more than about 7 ounces, with the short, ornate stem and you'll be set.

The Absinthe Spoon

Most people prefer their absinthe sweetened to some degree. The usual process of adding sugar requires an absinthe spoon.

Spoons come in a wide variety of designs, but they all have a couple of commonalities - they're all perforated in some way, and they have a notch below the flat bowl to rest on the edge of the glass. Like glasses, spoons were very often branded in some way, and Kübler still produces branded spoons. Spoons usually run at less than $10, unless you get a silver-plated one. Mine is a silver-plate Eiffel Tower spoon, a reproduction of a tourist item commemorating the inauguration of the Tower in 1889. I think that it was around $20.

There are also grilles available for the same purpose. They look like a saucer that can be suspended above a glass.

There are of course a number of other items that the absintheure might obtain to fill out the respectable absinthiana collection. Marketing being what it is, absinthe manufacturers made every effort to get their brands in front of customers, and this is in part what contributed to the wide variety of absinthiana in the 19th century. Most of the rest of these items are in the "cool to have" category, and I'll list them by purpose.

To deliver water 

Absinthe is never served neat, but always mixed in some way. It might be in a cocktail, but more commonly absinthe is diluted with ice water. Of course one has to have mechanism to do this. In the Belle Epoch bistro, the ice water was often served next to the glass in a carafe so the patron could dilute the absinthe to taste.

However, unless you've got artful water dripping skills (patience and finesse!), using an absinthe fountain is an easier route to your louche. The ice water is loaded into a globe elevated above glass level on a stand. The stand incorporates several spigots which allow water to slowly drip over the sugar cube and to properly develop the louche.

If you're preparing for one, a brouilleur is a handy tool. A small bowl which fits over the rim of a glass, the brouilleur has a tiny hole on the bottom which slowly drips ice water. One can add sugar to directly to the brouilleur.

To hold your glass

In the bistro, absinthe was customarily served on a porcelain saucer which contained the width of the foot of the absinthe glass. The dish often was marked with the price of the drink, and at the end of the evening, one's saucers would be collected to add up your bill.

To contain sugar

Footed metal dishes were used to hold sugar cubes. Reproductions are available, but we use footed glass dishes. They're elegant, amply sized and cheap at the thrift store!

Other interesting stuff

Match holders - not for the heretical Czech burning ritual, but because smoking was common in 19th century bistros. Always emblazoned with an absinthe-maker's marque.

Spoon holder - for, well, absinthe spoons. Usually metal, funnel-shaped to accommodate a collection of spoons. Again, we use similarly-shaped glassware. Also from the thrift store.

Sugar tongs - any ornate tongs will do.

Next time: The Ritual and how to use all this stuff!

[1] I've even found Lucid-branded glasses in the thrift store. So very 19th century!