This time, let’s chat about some truly extraordinary absinthes.
Q: I hear that European absinthe is the cream of the crop. Is it available in the US, and from where?
R: The short answer is yes, and yes. And you’d best get out the credit card to pay for shipping.
But first, a bit of recent history.
T.A. Breaux probably knows more about absinthe than anyone alive today. He is an environmental microbiologist, native to New Orleans. In the 1990’s he found a few unopened bottles of century-old absinthe. Knowing that the prevailing opinion (no science was involved in the US’s absinthe policy) was that absinthe was poison, Ted decided that the only way to re-make the classic aperitif was to relocate to Europe where it had been legal since 1988, when the EU standardized its food and beverage regulations. Happily, the equipment remained in France to properly distill real, authentic absinthe. He used his scientific education to engage in some forensic research, analyzed the contents of these very old bottles and began to develop modern versions that are indistinguishable from the one-hundred-year-old real thing.
Ted’s Jade absinthes began production in 2000, and I consider them to be the very best. Native botanicals and antique stills produce an absinthe that is indistinguishable from those served in Belle Epoch Paris. Here is a selection that we have enjoyed.
Jade Nouvelle-Orléans – The first in Ted Breaux’s creations, this may be my personal favorite. It features a lovely floral bouquet, which I suppose to the gardener is especially appealing. Rolling clouds form the jade green louche. The Wormwood Society rates Nouvelle-Orléans at 4.4/5.
Jade Edouard – Another perennial favorite in our house, Edouard spots a complex aroma and a spicy flavor note. Thick trails form in the opalescent light green louche. 4.5/5 at TWS.
Jade Verte Suisse – A bit of spice and mint distinguish this fine, nicely balanced absinthe. It’s got a good tingly mouthfeel, which lingers on the palate. Some consider this the best of the Jade absinthes. TWS gives it a 4.5/5.
However, Jade isn’t the only fantastic European producer out there. We recently sampled La Clandestine (TWS gives it a 4.3), which is light and lovely, even though it was mixed a little sweet for my taste. The anise is a bit less than some absinthes, and the mouthfeel is silky with a slight tingle. La Clandestine is a Swiss absinthe, which is known for the “clandestine” (bootleg) absinthes. After prohibition in the early 20th century, Swiss producers skipped the final herbal maceration process – the one that produces the green hue. This colorless absinthe is termed “la Bleue” or “blanche”. That way they could plausibly fool the government men into thinking that the clear contents of those bottles was gin. Maybe. Maybe the government men just liked to think that it was gin, and went home to their nightly absinthe after all.
Post-ban style Swiss absinthe is now commonly called la Bleue, and there are several good ones available. They tend to have lighter herbal notes because of the missing second maceration. Alandia’s Suisse la Bleue is a standard favorite, distinguished by the aromas of honey and flowers.
The problem is that these labels are virtual unobtanium in the US. The good news is that they are readily available for import – for a price. Alandia (www.alandia.de) is our usual supplier. Shipping cost for one bottle from Germany to the US is $44.45 which is 60% of the cost of a bottle of Jade. Eep! The good news is that the shipping cost is exactly the same for three bottles, which reduces the cost per bottle to something more reasonable. In fact, it’s cheaper to buy 3 bottles from Alandia than from the one liquor store in the US that will ship Jade absinthe. Good reasons to coordinate an order with friends.
It’s still higher than domestic absinthes, but remember that these are the extraordinary absinthes.
Next time:
The absinthe serving ritual.
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