They're designed to be worn under skirts of course, but also as flirtatious "shorts" under a bustled overskirt. This first set is naturally white, but a black pair is coming.
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| The muslin. The left side is the rear; the right is the front crotch. |
I patterned the drawers in one afternoon, using Frances Grimble's Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 1. Although the diagram in the book was remarkably easy to follow, the fitting proved to be fiddly. I think I used 4 yards of patterning fabric on the muslin. Of course, I'm no size 12, so that's probably the main disconnect from diagram to pattern. The lesson here is to plan ahead.
The fabric is a white cotton confection that I picked up in the bargain rack at Denver Fabrics. I recall it being under $5/yard. I have no idea what it might be called (suggestions are welcome), but I was thinking that if I had the money and the inclination to do an English Regency again, that 10 yards might be worth it. Alas, I only bought the 2 required for drawers, and as that was probably a year ago, Denver Fabric's bolt is now gone.
The closeups will help you see the complexity here - there are ribbons of alternating Swiss dot, leno or drawn thread, and twill. It's a very lightweight cotton with a soft finish.
The dots are on one side only of the fabric, and so that is the exterior.
For the cuffs, I purchased some galloon and Venice lace at full price - you can't get everything on the cheap, after all - and purple ribbon and ribbon roses. The buttons are lovely engraved shell from JHB.
The knee cuffs are standard closed cuffs, with a pair of buttonholes worked on the outside of the knee. The length is such that it will fit over the fullest part of the calf. Gather the leg into the knee cuff and stitch together. The cuffs actually fall at about mid-calf, but when they're cinched up, they go between knee and calf. My cuffs tie with a purple ribbon, making a nice bow on the outside of the knee.
Although I had purchased the laces for the cuffs, I wasn't satisfied with how they looked. I had these lace curtain ruffles in my stash. They're all synthetic, but they're soft so they don't bother me. I stitched them onto the top of the cuff. (The ribbons go through the lace, btw) I've since decided that I really want them stitched to the bottom of the cuffs, so I can have space on the cuffs for ribbon roses and ribbon trimming. It's a toss up whether I'll get them re-trimmed before the photo shoot or not, but considering the rest of the concept for under the skirts, I'm going to try to get it done.
The fly holds the front of the drawers shut. I put four machine button holes in the fly, one through the waist band and three in the legs. Thread a grosgrain ribbon through one of the waistband's side buttonholes, around the back, and through the other. Cinching up this ribbon will provide a better fit. The waistband is cut to my current measurements. Knowing my body as I do - and what happens to drawstrings when they meet my tummy, I added a cheat into the waist band. The center-back 18" of the ribbon is actually white elastic.
They are in perfectly wearable condition, so I'm considering them "done", even though I may decide to re-trim those cuffs.
EDIT: I've now take the lace cuffs off and am adding the purple ribbons and ribbon roses. The lace is going back on, too. I think that they look just fetching,and are the perfect compliment to things like weapons and holsters.
[1] I've written elsewhere on the topic of "authenticity" as it applies to fantasy clothing. I'll try to find it and post it here.
For the cuffs, I purchased some galloon and Venice lace at full price - you can't get everything on the cheap, after all - and purple ribbon and ribbon roses. The buttons are lovely engraved shell from JHB.
Making-up is fairly straight-forward. Stitch together the inseam of both legs and then hem the crotch.
The waist band is standard, except that a button hole is worked at about 6" on both sides of the fly. Gather the legs onto the waist band. I grouped most of the gathers at the hips to allow for ease; the front of the drawers are flat, taking into consideration that the fashionable profile is flat in the front with lots of fullness in the rear. The rear of the waistband secures the rear of the legs. Stitch the waistband to the legs.
The knee cuffs are standard closed cuffs, with a pair of buttonholes worked on the outside of the knee. The length is such that it will fit over the fullest part of the calf. Gather the leg into the knee cuff and stitch together. The cuffs actually fall at about mid-calf, but when they're cinched up, they go between knee and calf. My cuffs tie with a purple ribbon, making a nice bow on the outside of the knee. Although I had purchased the laces for the cuffs, I wasn't satisfied with how they looked. I had these lace curtain ruffles in my stash. They're all synthetic, but they're soft so they don't bother me. I stitched them onto the top of the cuff. (The ribbons go through the lace, btw) I've since decided that I really want them stitched to the bottom of the cuffs, so I can have space on the cuffs for ribbon roses and ribbon trimming. It's a toss up whether I'll get them re-trimmed before the photo shoot or not, but considering the rest of the concept for under the skirts, I'm going to try to get it done.
The fly holds the front of the drawers shut. I put four machine button holes in the fly, one through the waist band and three in the legs. Thread a grosgrain ribbon through one of the waistband's side buttonholes, around the back, and through the other. Cinching up this ribbon will provide a better fit. The waistband is cut to my current measurements. Knowing my body as I do - and what happens to drawstrings when they meet my tummy, I added a cheat into the waist band. The center-back 18" of the ribbon is actually white elastic.
They are in perfectly wearable condition, so I'm considering them "done", even though I may decide to re-trim those cuffs.
[1] I've written elsewhere on the topic of "authenticity" as it applies to fantasy clothing. I'll try to find it and post it here.
I'm frankly not terribly worried about my drawers, since I don't anticipate showing them off at the photoshoot. However, I am within a few pounds of being able to fit into a corset that I've been holding onto for 20+ years, that will be perfect for Victorian purposes. Alas, it's practical rather than pretty, but I plan to make some lacy things to wear under it. Neither of which will happen in time for the photoshoot, but I can dream of someday!
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