An Absinthe Minded FAQ - Part 5; The Absinthe Ritual

Photo credit: John Mays

Q: Having acquired the absinthe and all the accouterments, what's next? Isn't there fire involved?

R: Coughs delicately. No, we call the Absinthe Heresy.

But first, some mechanics.

Essential oils from the herbal macerations are dissolved in  absinthe during distillation. Ice water is added to the absinthe before serving, to emulsify with the essential oils. This is what creates the "louche", the characteristic swirling opalescent cloudiness that defines a good absinthe. Simultaneously, the essential oils release a bouquet of fragrances - floral, herbal, spicy, honey. The fragrance will  fill the glass, and sometimes the room. Fragrance is considered part of the experience; enjoy it.

The louche should not be too thin nor too thick. Too thin is typical of an inferior absinthe; too thick would indicate presence of a gum or resin, which is how some low quality or faux absinthes get a louche, because there's not enough anise oil in the mix to do it properly. This is, by the way, an "authentic" adulteration, as it was used in the 19th century too.

The trick to getting a nice louche is to add ice water slowly to the absinthe. If you have a lot of control, a carafe will do the trick. If you've gone "all in" and bought an absinthe fountain, your finesse counts a little less.

So, let's prepare some absinthe. 

Photo credit: John Mays

You will need your glass and spoon, ice water in whatever delivery container you have acquired, and some sugar cubes. Packages of absinthe sugar are available on line, and I do recommend those little green-wrapped cubes. Gourmet refined or raw sugar is also available in cube form, and the raw sugar in particular will add a different note to your prepared absinthe. However, they are larger in size compared to the absinthe sugar and they don't melt as quickly or thoroughly.

Start by pouring an ounce of absinthe into your glass. If you have a glass with a measured dose or bubble, that's easy. If not, you'll want to add a jigger to your bar.

Place the sugar cube on the spoon, and lay the spoon across the glass. Sugar is, by the way, optional, and should be added to taste. If you prefer sweetness, use an entire cube. If you like less, feel free to cut the cube to a smaller size. Sugar balance is important; it tempers the bite of the wormwood, but it can also mask flavors.

If you are using a carafe to deliver the water, start by wetting the sugar cube. Then set down your carafe for a few seconds - up to a minute - to give the sugar a head start on melting. If you're using gourmet sugar cubes, this is a good idea, even if you have a fountain.

Now start to drizzle the ice water over the sugar (from the carafe or fountain) in a thin steady stream. Watch the louche magically develop. Inhale the fragrance.

The typical ratio of absinthe to water is 1:5, or one ounce of absinthe to five ounces of water, resulting in a 6 ounce drink and about 12% or 14% alcohol - comparable to a glass of wine. If you want it a bit stronger, use three or four ounces of water.

Coordinate the speed of pouring with the dissolution rate of the sugar. This might take some practice.

Using the absinthe spoon, stir the glass briefly to mix in any undissolved sugar grains in the bottom of the glass.

L'Heure Verte est arrivée!

Sip slowly, allow the mix to slip across your tongue and enjoy the sensations, the fragrances, and the flavors. Notice how the fragrance has changed with the addition of water and sugar. 

But what about that burning sugar part?

Pointless, dangerous, and heretical. 

It was an "innovation" designed to enhance the allure of absinthe, to underscore the illicit drug image, a marketing ploy that does nothing more to the absinthe than to impart the flavor of burned sugar to it, while burning off some of the essential oils that are critical to the flavor. It's not traditional, unless you count the past 20 years of Czech practice. 

Next time: how to evaluate an absinthe. 

An Absinthe Minded FAQ - Part 4; Absinthiana

Q: I've purchased an impressive-looking bottle, and I'd like to do a respectable presentation. What else do I need to serve absinthe?

My Pontarlier reservoir glass

R: While there are no actual requirements beyond a pretty glass and an absinthe spoon, there are myriad available examples of each out there - and more. Let's first look at these two basics and then the other absinthiana that will complete your set. And some Cheapside sources!

The Glass

The first item that you'll want to look for is a good absinthe glass.

Historically, absinthe was served in multi-purpose bar ware, stemmed water or wine glasses that worked equally well with other drinks, and would stand up to heavy use. As absinthe-specific glasses were developed, the absinthe makers started using barware to advertise their brands, adding logos to virtually every item of absinthiana. As glassware specialized, the classic shape developed, with a dosing bubble or line to assist in measurement.

The typical absinthe glass is a funnel shape with a short, often ornate stem. Glasses are often decorated or faceted to reflect light into or through the louche. A good glass will cost you as much a $20, although they can occasionally be found in thrift stores [1] for far less. Mine is a finer quality glass than would be found in a Belle Epoch bistro; it's a delicate glass, probably mouth-blown. La Rochere makes a variety of lovely sturdy machine-molded absinthe glasses. To start, there's the basic Pontarlier, a classic shape with a dosing bubble. La Rochere also makes an ornate absinthe glass in the Versailles pattern, with a dosing line rather than a bubble. There's a carafe (which I'll talk about in a bit) in the Versailles pattern.

There are other typical shapes. La Rochere's torsade is one of the most frequently seen glasses in Impressionist paintings. (One of the great things about La Rochere is that they're 500 years old - some of the glassware that they make today is unchanged from previous centuries.) They also make the Lyonnais, another pattern that also has a matching carafe.

Luckily, the funnel shape is still in production by a lot of other manufacturers as "water" glasses. IKEA's Pokal wine glass is a perfect shape and size and it's about $1.50. Water glasses are also readily available from your local thrift store. Look for the funnel shape, clear glass, no more than about 7 ounces, with the short, ornate stem and you'll be set.

The Absinthe Spoon

Most people prefer their absinthe sweetened to some degree. The usual process of adding sugar requires an absinthe spoon.

Spoons come in a wide variety of designs, but they all have a couple of commonalities - they're all perforated in some way, and they have a notch below the flat bowl to rest on the edge of the glass. Like glasses, spoons were very often branded in some way, and Kübler still produces branded spoons. Spoons usually run at less than $10, unless you get a silver-plated one. Mine is a silver-plate Eiffel Tower spoon, a reproduction of a tourist item commemorating the inauguration of the Tower in 1889. I think that it was around $20.

There are also grilles available for the same purpose. They look like a saucer that can be suspended above a glass.

There are of course a number of other items that the absintheure might obtain to fill out the respectable absinthiana collection. Marketing being what it is, absinthe manufacturers made every effort to get their brands in front of customers, and this is in part what contributed to the wide variety of absinthiana in the 19th century. Most of the rest of these items are in the "cool to have" category, and I'll list them by purpose.

To deliver water 

Absinthe is never served neat, but always mixed in some way. It might be in a cocktail, but more commonly absinthe is diluted with ice water. Of course one has to have mechanism to do this. In the Belle Epoch bistro, the ice water was often served next to the glass in a carafe so the patron could dilute the absinthe to taste.

However, unless you've got artful water dripping skills (patience and finesse!), using an absinthe fountain is an easier route to your louche. The ice water is loaded into a globe elevated above glass level on a stand. The stand incorporates several spigots which allow water to slowly drip over the sugar cube and to properly develop the louche.

If you're preparing for one, a brouilleur is a handy tool. A small bowl which fits over the rim of a glass, the brouilleur has a tiny hole on the bottom which slowly drips ice water. One can add sugar to directly to the brouilleur.

To hold your glass

In the bistro, absinthe was customarily served on a porcelain saucer which contained the width of the foot of the absinthe glass. The dish often was marked with the price of the drink, and at the end of the evening, one's saucers would be collected to add up your bill.

To contain sugar

Footed metal dishes were used to hold sugar cubes. Reproductions are available, but we use footed glass dishes. They're elegant, amply sized and cheap at the thrift store!

Other interesting stuff

Match holders - not for the heretical Czech burning ritual, but because smoking was common in 19th century bistros. Always emblazoned with an absinthe-maker's marque.

Spoon holder - for, well, absinthe spoons. Usually metal, funnel-shaped to accommodate a collection of spoons. Again, we use similarly-shaped glassware. Also from the thrift store.

Sugar tongs - any ornate tongs will do.

Next time: The Ritual and how to use all this stuff!

[1] I've even found Lucid-branded glasses in the thrift store. So very 19th century!

An Absinthe Minded FAQ - Part 3; Extraordinary absinthes

This time, let’s chat about some truly extraordinary absinthes.

Q: I hear that European absinthe is the cream of the crop. Is it available in the US, and from where?

R: The short answer is yes, and yes. And you’d best get out the credit card to pay for shipping.

But first, a bit of recent history.

T.A. Breaux probably knows more about absinthe than anyone alive today. He is an environmental microbiologist, native to New Orleans. In the 1990’s he found a few unopened bottles of century-old absinthe. Knowing that the prevailing opinion (no science was involved in the US’s absinthe policy) was that absinthe was poison, Ted decided that the only way to re-make the classic aperitif was to relocate to Europe where it had been legal since 1988, when the EU standardized its food and beverage regulations. Happily, the equipment remained in France to properly distill real, authentic absinthe. He used his scientific education to engage in some forensic research, analyzed the contents of these very old bottles and began to develop modern versions that are indistinguishable from the one-hundred-year-old real thing.

Ted’s Jade absinthes began production in 2000, and I consider them to be the very best. Native botanicals and antique stills produce an absinthe that is indistinguishable from those served in Belle Epoch Paris. Here is a selection that we have enjoyed.

Jade Nouvelle-Orléans – The first in Ted Breaux’s creations, this may be my personal favorite. It features a lovely floral bouquet, which I suppose to the gardener is especially appealing. Rolling clouds form the jade green louche. The Wormwood Society rates Nouvelle-Orléans at 4.4/5.

Jade Edouard – Another perennial favorite in our house, Edouard spots a complex aroma and a spicy flavor note. Thick trails form in the opalescent light green louche. 4.5/5 at TWS.

Jade Verte Suisse – A bit of spice and mint distinguish this fine, nicely balanced absinthe. It’s got a good tingly mouthfeel, which lingers on the palate. Some consider this the best of the Jade absinthes. TWS gives it a 4.5/5.

However, Jade isn’t the only fantastic European producer out there. We recently sampled La Clandestine (TWS gives it a 4.3), which is light and lovely, even though it was mixed a little sweet for my taste. The anise is a bit less than some absinthes, and the mouthfeel is silky with a slight tingle. La Clandestine is a Swiss absinthe, which is known for the “clandestine” (bootleg) absinthes. After prohibition in the early 20th century, Swiss producers skipped the final herbal maceration process – the one that produces the green hue. This colorless absinthe is termed “la Bleue” or “blanche”. That way they could plausibly fool the government men into thinking that the clear contents of those bottles was gin. Maybe. Maybe the government men just liked to think that it was gin, and went home to their nightly absinthe after all.

Post-ban style Swiss absinthe is now commonly called la Bleue, and there are several good ones available. They tend to have lighter herbal notes because of the missing second maceration. Alandia’s Suisse la Bleue is a standard favorite, distinguished by the aromas of honey and flowers.

The problem is that these labels are virtual unobtanium in the US. The good news is that they are readily available for import – for a price. Alandia (www.alandia.de) is our usual supplier. Shipping cost for one bottle from Germany to the US is $44.45 which is 60% of the cost of a bottle of Jade. Eep! The good news is that the shipping cost is exactly the same for three bottles, which reduces the cost per bottle to something more reasonable. In fact, it’s cheaper to buy 3 bottles from Alandia than from the one liquor store in the US that will ship Jade absinthe. Good reasons to coordinate an order with friends.

It’s still higher than domestic absinthes, but remember that these are the extraordinary absinthes.

Next time:

The absinthe serving ritual.

An Absinthe Minded FAQ - Part 2; Local sources and recommendations

Hazel's in Boulder, CO. Photo credit: Chris Bays 

Q: I'm at my local package store for a bottle of the Green Fairy. There are too many pretty labels on the shelf! How do I decide??


R: First of all, know that this is an investment. As such, you will get exactly what you pay for in a bottle of absinthe - there is a positive correlation between price and quality. If you look at nothing else, the highest priced bottle is likely to have the best balance of flavor, color, mouthfeel (that faintly astringent or tingly-on-the-tongue quality), and louche (the clouded appearance).


Consider too, that there are about 25 "doses" or servings of absinthe in a 750 ml bottle. At $75 for a bottle, that's about $3 per glass. So, actually cheaper than a $20 bottle of wine! And the alcohol content is about the same.


However, maybe you've got some choices in the $60-$75 range. In Denver, there are three local craft producers that are worth checking out.


Redux (Golden Moon Distillery, Golden, CO) 4.0/5 rating from The Wormwood Society. We've gone through one bottle of this very respectable absinthe, and were quite pleased. Flavors are fresh and intense, and the louche is a very entertaining mix of trails. Available from the distillery; checking on store availability.


Leopold Brothers (Leopold Bros, Denver, CO) - 4.3/5 rating from TWS. I haven't tried this one, but it is appealing; said to be well-balanced with at room-filling fragrance. The bottles are labeled with batch numbers. Select batches after #15. Readily available in liquor stores in the Denver Metro.


Trinity (Novovino Wine, Loveland, CO) 3.3/5 rating from TWS. A new one to me, this absinthe is described as "a good start", although it has already garnered a gold medal at the Denver International Spirits Festival. It is described as having light flavors, and a good candidate for a "standard" absinthe. Well worth a try. Available in many area liquor stores.


Looking at the shelf at Hazel's in Boulder (one of the better-appointed stores in the Metro), I honestly can't recommend any of the other offerings. (Check out the first FAQ in this series for cautionary tales.) Chambers Wine and Liquor carries a good variety, but beware of that lurid green one.


In short, you *can* pick up a perfectly good absinthe in Denver tonight.


Next time: More Sources and Recommendations.

Dress Diary: Post Edwardian evening gown - That Corset!

In the "a little knowledge might not be a good thing" category:

I just got a look at the pattern directions for Laughing Moon's corsets pattern.

Ho-boy, does that one have a lot of interesting information.

The LM pattern recommends finishing the front and back openings before doing the actual fittings. This means installing the busk and the grommets, lacing it up, and then doing the actual shaping of the panels. The mockup seems to be valuable only to determine the height of the corset and possibly ensuring that the width is correct.

Radical. Makes absolutely perfect sense. When you're making a Gothic fitted dress, you put the eyelets in the front, lace it up, and then do the final fitting.

And now I'm thinking that I need a redux on the 1910 corset. And a trip to Colorado Fabrics with the almost-finished corset to buy boning.

An Absinthe Minded FAQ - part 1; What is "real" absinthe?

Photo Credit: EvilJohn Mays

In yet another departure from my usual parsimonious ruminations, today I'm going to start a series of posts on the subject of Absinthe.

Absinthe is of course one of the defining spirits of the Victorian era, and specifically of La Belle Epoch - the almost parallel time period across the Channel in France. The social climate was optimistic, and characterized by a blooming arts community, technological and scientific innovation, and peace in the region. Absinthe was especially popular amongst the Parisian artists and writers, and being counter-cultural, was almost categorically opposed by social conservatives and the establishment.

I'd call absinthe the consummate Steampunk liquor.

Which is the reason why the Denver Victorian & Steampunk Society hosts Absinthe Minded a couple times a year, for the Steampunk community. In true Retro-punk fashion, we are for an evening, re-creating the Bohemian atmosphere complete with artists and writers, tinkerers, mad scientists, and absinthe. Our fall Absinthe Minded is at MileHiCon, the Denver literary science fiction convention. And as it's quickly approaching, I'm of a mind to put some information out there about absinthe and its surrounding culture. And I might even have a small stack of Steampunk books as door prizes.

Let's start with some basics, and subsequent posts to this blog will continue the theme through the end of October.

Q: There are a lot of bottles on the shelf at the liquor store. What is "real" absinthe, and what isn't?

R: Authentic, "traditional" absinthe is comparable to antique 19th century absinthe. It is technically an aperitif spirit, not a liqueur, and is intended to be diluted in ice water before drinking, optionally with sugar. Authentic absinthe must be distilled with the required herbs, is unsweetened, is at least 90 proof, uses Artemisia absinthium as the main ingredient, and as such must have a characteristic anise and wormwood flavor. There are very good domestic varieties of absinthe, made using traditional methods. There are also faux absinthes.

Distillation is required to separate water-soluble bitter absinthins from the desired essential oils. Herbs and a neutral spirit are macerated together and then distilled, and most absinthes undergo a secondary herbal maceration, from which the color is developed. Some high quality absinthe does not have a second herbal maceration, and is classed as blanche or la Bleue. Absinthe should not be artificially colored.

Faux absinthes vary considerably. Artificially colored absinthes are suspect, and there should never be sweeteners added. Be very cautious about the so-called Czech or "Bohemian" styles, which sometimes feature lurid colors. (Authentic absinthe is usually sold in colored bottles to protect the chlorophyll content, and thus color.) Gums and resins might be added to faux absinthe to simulate louche; they may use flavorings rather than herbs to create the flavors and fragrances. The home-made kits are not absinthe, since real absinthe requires distillation, and they're usually unappetizingly bitter besides.

In general, you're going to get what you pay for. A bottle of authentic absinthe will cost you around $70; however, consider that a single bottle goes a long way.

Next time: Local sources and recommendations.