Eccentricities Make the Steampunk - Escaping Tropes for an Authentic Impression

I was chatting with a friend of mine the other day.

"I wish I had something STEAMY to wear," she said. Never mind that she makes fabulous and authentic 1890's skin-out outfits. They're too authentic.

I recommended dress accessories. 

"If I want to look steamy," she said, "all I need is a mini top hat, goggles, a gun, and a leather corset. Poof. Steampunk. But I am just allergic to looking like everyone else."

I've thought on this for a couple of days, and looked in my own closet, and then I thought, "time to write a blog." Besides, I run dress accessories panels at local conventions, and it's always nice to be able to distill philosophy down into something that's instantly understandable for interested folks. What it comes down to is:

Think Eccentric. 

There are a lot of tropes in steampunk dressing. Tropes aren't necessarily bad. In many ways, they're necessary to define any genre, and for the beginner on a sartorial journey, they're a useful shortcut to getting the look whilst researching, making, and developing a more unique impression. 

However, sartorial tropes are the thing that everyone wears. Not only does this mean that one gads about looking like everyone else, but tropes detract from the authenticity [1] of your outfit, reducing what might be a unique impression to a "costume." 

If we look at the typical tropes, we can start to see them as defining particular dress accessories, and deconstruct - and re-construct - atypical accessories that parallel the tropes without copying them. Let's look at some examples.  

Goggles - perhaps the archetypal Steampunk accessory, goggles are indeed necessary when one is requiring eye protection from flying bugs or sparks. However, there are many other eyewear options in Neo-Victorian or Steampunk stylings. I've recently picked up a pair of sunglasses  that look fab, for instance. Consider a lorgnette, or even getting your own prescription in a pair of Victorian-looking frames. How about opera glasses? 

Mini top hats - so ubiquitous as to have passed over into popular culture, women are wearing white ones for their weddings. I'm a hat girl, so perhaps I overstate the issue somewhat, but to some observers, hats of virtually any sort communicate "vintage". A standard top hat is a perfectly good accessory and has large flat areas for displaying embellishment like fascinators and mini "utility belts" masquerading as hat bands. I've even seen working clocks on top hats. Let's just add that a top hat, being a Victorian men's accessory, is positively progressive on a lady's head. (Progressive Victorianism is a topic for another blog post, but I see it as pretty Steampunk.)

Other steamy hat possibilities abound, such as pith helmets and bowlers for the gents, and fancy ladies hats just begging for some metal bits to be tucked in amongst the feathers and bows. Ladies can also find beautiful Steampunk barrettes on Etsy to tame tresses, and then there are always the glorious hat pins for an extra splash of metal. Speaking of tresses, Victorian women didn't have more hair than most of us have, but they did use false hair pieces. 

Corsets - my authenticity bias is going to show here, but - ladies, corsets are not appropriate for wear on the outside of your clothing unless you're communicating something, well, risqué. Let's re-frame the corset into other-things-that-go-about-one's-waist, but are more eccentric. I am fond of leather belts from the thrift store. I've found some lovely pierced leather belts or belts with studs, and belts with huge eyelets which are bonzer for hooking in pouches and chains. (I like buying used, partly because it comes with the patina of age.) A wide bright sash, bound with an interesting belt is a good waist cincher. I wear several belts high about my waist instead of the belt that is intended for the 1890's Sporting Costume basque. And if you want to go with the corset look, a corselet is a very good - and more authentic - option. The possibilities for steamy embellishment are endless. 

Brown - it's said that Steampunk is what happened when Goths discovered brown. The facts are disputable, but it's hard to ignore that both genres use Victorian clothing as a foundation. This trope arises from all the cabinet cards that resulted from an intersection of Victorians' passion for portraiture and the the development of photography. Although our mind's eye sees Victorians in sepia tones, any perusal of extant garments makes it very clear that clothing was virtually every color imaginable - including brown. A look at the dye samples at the South Park History Museum recently, further confirms that color was everywhere in the Victorian closet.

If you're making your own clothing, I recommend looking for interesting textile patterns; Victorian woven textiles featured paisley patterns, stripes, and Asian-themed brocades. Stripes have been claimed by the Steampunk community as our own. Thankfully, many of the gent's trousers in the thrift stores that are otherwise suitable mods are lovely pinstripes.

I've listed only four of the most common tropes. There are many more tropes that could bear some re-examining, from cephalopods to weaponry. Perhaps an alternate way of looking at sartorial tropes are as if they define parts of the body that would have been - in the Victorian era - embellished in some fashion. The challenge is to devise other ways in which headwear and eyewear and color can be used to communicate Steampunk. I encourage you to consider that non-vertebrates are not the only fish in the sea. Think eccentrically about your Steampunk impression and create something unique and authentic.

[1] See my blog on authenticity to read more about how I define "authenticity" in a fantasy genre. 

Rummaging: The Thrift Store

One of the better Rummaging Enterprises is your local thrift store. In the Denver area, we're lucky to have the ARC stores peppered throughout the metrosprawl. Their prices are a little better than Goodwill stores, and they have the added advantage of having most of their inventory on a 50% discount on Saturdays.

Rummaging requires strategies to be a success. You're not going to pop in and find the perfect eyelet bedskirt every Saturday. It takes frequent trips, and the focus to keep looking.

• Be methodical. Have a routine; for instance, consistently check the same categories of goods every time you walk into the store. I'm always looking for serving dishes for Teas and Absinthe Minded parties, so I start in the glassware sections. There are often good fabrics in the curtains (home dec weights are usually better for historically-inspired clothing), and I look at bedskirts for embroidered or eyelet ruffles. I'm always looking for belts - leather, ornate - and I check out the scarves and hats, too. 
• Make an afternoon of it and hit two or three stores, for the best selection. 
• Know what you're looking for, the "hand" or feel of the fabric or good clothing labels. Use your smart phone if you need to do a little research. 
• Saturday sales will make the best use of your thrifting budget.
• Thrift store purchases are often not refundable if you want to return something. However, they do give you store credit if you return unused items within their guidelines. 
• Never wait to buy. It won't be there if you go back later. Conversely, don't wait until the week before the con to start shopping. 
• Put it in your cart if you even think that you'll want it. You can put it back later if you change your mind. Also keep an eye on your cart; I've had stuff disappear from out of it. 

The possibilities at a thrift store are virtually endless. If you're just beginning to assemble clothing, the thrift store is great place to start. There are distinctive profiles that say "Victorian", and you'll want to look for basic separates that communicate the impression. We're going to focus on the 1890's for women, because the profile is fairly easy to achieve with modern clothing. On the other hand, men's styles haven't really changed in the past 150 years, so the thrift store is a great place to start for the gentlemen. Then add the dress accessories; they really make the impression and contribute to the neo-Victorian authenticity of the outfit.

Ladies 1890s  

Profile

• Long skirts that flare from the waist to a wide hem, in pinstripes, plaids, or solids. The front of the skirt was usually flat, with the fullness at the back center. Skirts with a casing waistline might be able to be modded. Typical colors are deep or bright; avoid pastels and most prints. Hem ruffles are a plus. Layer light colored skirts under dark skirts and tuck up the overskirts for a rakish look. 
• White cotton tops, typically long-sleeved, although short or puffy sleeves are fine for Steampunk. Even sleeveless, if you're daring. Look for details like full sleeve tops, pintucks, ruffles and lace. High collars look great with a necktie of several sorts; mandarin and wingtip collars are authentic. The visual weight of the top should be at the shoulder level and trim around the bustline and waist.  

Dress accessories

• Waistcoat - similar to men's, the typical style is high collar without points at the front waist. However, ladies have more leeway as to styling. Consider changing out buttons for quick bling. 
• Jacket - Bolero jackets were popular, as were Eaton jackets - waist-length, full at the shoulders. There are some out there that have some militaristic details, that can be easily modded - or molded - to Steampunk. Look also for "princess" lines - shaping that fits the jacket to the body. Peplums and ruffles are a bonus. 
• Neckwear - women wore string ties and cravats, both of which are frequently seen in the men's section at the thrift store. 
• Hats - Victorian ladies usually wore hats much higher on the head than we do; smaller size hats will work great. Also, boaters were popular for sporting. Look in the men's department for pit helmets or newsboy caps, too. 
• Jewelry - speaking of cravats, cravat pins are graceful additions. Look for short stick pins in the jewelry case. Necklaces, rings, and earrings were also commonly worn. 
• Gloves - anything goes, but I'd avoid shiny stretchy fabrics. They look too modern. 
• Handkerchiefs - you'll find handkerchiefs in the table linens; apparently they're easy to confuse with napkins. And if you do find linen napkins - real linen, not cotton or poly - let me know. 
• Belts - real leather looks best, and pre-owned looks well-worn. Look for anything fancy, with studs or braiding or cutouts for interest. Check the men's department. Sling them below your waist, or cinch about your ribcage for a corseted look. Belts were used for holding things other than pants 100 years ago; I have a holster for mine, and also tuck a fan in my belt. Lay your gloves over your belt when you're not wearing them, or tuck overskirts up into belts. (I recommend strategically placed pins for either of these arrangements.)
• Shoes - pointed toes, slight to moderate heel. Personally, I dislike zippers, but sometimes the right boot comes along with a zipper and what are you going to do? Riding boots look great and are easy on the feet for a day of con walking. I highly recommend spending some of what you're saving at the thrift store, on an excellent pair of insoles. 
• Reticule - the lady's purse. Usually small, ornate and lacy or beaded. You're more likely nowadays to find a small leather shoulder bag in an industrial style. 
• Walking stick - I haven't seen any of these at the thrift stores, but it can't hurt to look, right?

Men's Genera-Victorian 

Profile

• Flat-front trousers, in pinstripes, plaids, or solids. Look for dress slacks. Wool slacks are great. Cotton twills or chinos are perfect for the working Steampunk, and easy to add lampasses to for the militaristic look. They can be larger than your usual waist size, if you want to do the authentic thing and wear them with suspenders. Remove the belt loops and sew on buttons; clip-on suspenders are a later invention. Trousers were worn above the waistline. 
• Tuxedo shirt, with wing-tip collar. 
• A vest or waistcoat; it could be plain or fancy, single- or double-breasted. Victorian vests had higher necklines and didn't usually have the front center points. A gentleman's pants waistline was never visible. 

Dress accessories

• Coats - long duster-style for the dashing airship captain look; shorter suit-coat looks for more sedate wear. Avoid anything with shoulder pads; they were really popular 20 years ago, so they're all over the thrift stores. Or simply remove them. The cut will still be generous, but not supported. 
• Hats - you'll find pageboy caps at the thrift stores. For a good top hat, you'll likely need to buy new, and on-line. 
• Neckwear - cravats are typical and often available. Narrow ties were also popular, but avoid the modern tie.  
• Suspenders - find suspenders with button loops and as little elastic as possible. 
• Jewelry - cravat pins and rings were common. 
• Gloves - standard white gloves for dress; any number of other styles are likely for gents. Fingerless gloves are easily created from normal leather gloves - just cut off the top half of the fingers. 
• Belts - real leather looks best, and pre-owned looks well-worn. They're not for holding your trousers up; sling them below your waist, and thread a holster or pouch on them Fold your gloves over them when your not wearing them. Use several at once. 
• Shoes - look for pointed toe simple dress shoes. 
• Handkerchiefs - an indispensable gent's accessory. I recommend Ross stores for men's hankies. I've picked up monogrammed ones at Ross for the guys. But you might find them in the thrift store, like the ladies versions, in the table linens. Inexplicable, but there you are. 

Some other stuff that can be modded

• Almost any garment with buttons can benefit from some new buttons. Look for them at the fabric stores, but be sure to have the coupons or get in on sales. Or find clothing at the thrift store that is only good for its buttons and discard the garment. Buttons are expensive. 
• Bedskirts are an excellent source for flounces. A twin bedskirt has 5 or 6 yards of flounce. Look for embroidered white ruffles, or eyelet. They run about $5. 
• If you're up to making your own, curtain panels are a good source for yardage - especially if sets are available. Cotton twills are usually available and make good skirts. Sheers are also good for draperies and graceful puffs. Occasionally, embroidered silk shows up which has found its way into cravats and long scarves. 
• Speaking of curtains, a good number have beaded or tasseled trims that can be removed and re-sourced as trims. 
• Sheer long-sleeved tops - even if they don't fit - work great for glovettes; just cut off the sleeves as far above the cuffs as your want the length to be. Hand-hem the top edge. You may need to narrow the sleeves to fit your arm's profile. 
• Jackets are easily shortened to bolero-length, if you're handy with a sewing machine.