A peek at the Edwardian Jacket in progress

 A couple of quick shots of one of the current series of projects.

The revers, ready for blind stitching and button closures

This jacket is made from Butterrick 4952, with a number of modifications. I'm using the body with the revers, the straight sleeves and the stand-up collar, so I think I've got elements from all three views. I'm also adding a fancy peplum to the back of the jacket, and making it a button-on flourish. The jacket is designed to be be worn with my demi-train skirt (the contrast fabric is scrap fron the skirt) and so between jacket and skirt, I have what would be considered a "suit".



The body of the jacket is a cotton un-cut corduroy that I had in my stash. The suit will also be worn with a bustled overskirt, of black moleskin.

Although the pattern calls for a full lining, I decided to face only the revers and sleeve cuffs - to save the contrast fabric for the peplum.



So, some detailed notes:

• The revers - since the revers are simply faced, I need to blind-stitch the hidden edge of the facing to the interior of the jacket.
• 

  

  The cuffs with faced turnback and lace extended cuff.
  The turnback will be secured with buttons, and the cuff
  will be "closed" with chain.

  The sleeves - the cuffs are faced to match the revers. The lace extended cuff is knife-pleated, and since it's nylon, once pressed, it seemed to want to stay in the pleats. I'm not sure what it's going to look like after a few hours. I'm playing with adding some purple tulle to the lace part of the cuff. The turnback - a Van Dyke effect - will be finished with buttons and probably chains. (I have a random schema for buttons on Steampunk clothing - I've got a lot that look steamy, but not really enough for any one use. Besides, I like the "make do" look.)
• The peplum - it's taken some ruminations, but I think I've finally got the geometry of the peplum figured out. The next question is how to layer it, and with what fabrics? I'm about out of the cotton corduroy, and unless I find another three yards in my stash...? I've also got vast quantites of black tulle and somewhat less of purple tulle. I had also wanted to put some lace in there, but can't find any.
• Speaking of the rear view - instead of the commonly-seen back lacing - corset style - I'm going to use buttons and chains. It occured to me last night that I need to get them installed before I do a final fitting of the jacket.
• And some general notes about embellishment - I want to do double pleated ruffles on the cuffs and revers, and to follow through on the button motif with buttons and chains for the front closure. Considering using some of the gears that I have as stations on the chains.

More pictures tomorrow.