A flurry of progress, or the Belle Epoque Wardrobe begins to come together

It's taken months - almost a year - since I started working on the Belle Epoque wardrobe, intending to begin building from the bottom. Most of the remainder of the year was occupied with Too Much To Be Done, but I've taken a break for a few weeks, so I'm filling the "time off" with fabric, patterns, and research. 

My concept is to build a small wardrobe of what we called in the 1980's "separates" - tops, bottoms, vests, jackets - that can be mixed and matched for a variety of different outfits that meet sartorial needs for a multi-day event or for a variety of venues. 

Furthermore, I'm focused on the Belle Epoque for a couple of reasons. Primarily, the 1890's dress silhouette feels particularly Steampunk to me, likely the effect of Victorian preoccupation with safari and that culture of adventure and exploration. 

However, the last decade of the 19th century was particularly notable for women in the cause of feminism and suffrage, and was the beginnings of modern feminine agency. The New Woman sought radical change to provide opportunities for women independent of their husbands or fathers. Education, business opportunities, and even sport were claimed as a "woman's place" and women's attire reflected these spaces; clothing became more tailored (masculine), and more suited to the activities that women claimed as our own. Sporting attire developed with short skirts or -gasp- trousers as the bicycling craze was claimed by women as healthful exercising, but also a means of transportation independence. 

In short, the 1890's New Woman strongly represents my own belief in feminism and the agency of women. I'll likely be wearing my "VOTES FOR WOMEN" sash from time to time. 

Starting from the skin out, here are the current plans:

• Corset, from the Red Threaded 1880's pattern, made by a friend of mine (done)
• Chemise, self drafted from a 1890's published pattern (done)
• Drawers, self drafted from a 1890's published pattern (done but needing alterations)
• Corset cover of the chemise fabric leftovers, a lovely broderie anglaise lawn
• Petticoat, 7 gore, walking length (in process)
• At least two more petticoats, since 3 seems to be the magic number to achieve the silhouette
• A divided petticoat from an 1895 pattern
• Shirtwaist of rust red windowpane printed cotton from Black Snail #0314; antique mother of pearl buttons (in process)
• Shirtwaist of white textured cotton, Black Snail #0314, similar buttons
• A collection of neckwear - cravats (done), ties, a lace collar and dickey
• Walking skirt of deep mustard striped with rust red and brown cotton, self-drafted from a 1890's published pattern (in process)
• Jacket to match, primarily made of rust red cotton and trimmed in the deep mustard; Truly Victorian's Ripple Jacket pattern
• Walking suit of beige and taupe striped cotton
• Sporting bloomers of brown and black striped linen from Laughing Moon #110 to go with my basque (done) from the same pattern
• A couple of sporting-length skirts
• At least one vest, but probably two; Black Snail #0220
• Corselets of a yet-to-be-determined fabric and color (Truly Victorian #492), using buttons as a decorative motif
• Hats, gloves, shoes

That's a lot, but it should make for a variety wardrobe that will meet the needs of most events. (We'll have to talk about evening wear in another post.)

The good news is that some of the above is well under way. The corset and chemise are done; the first petticoat is in process as is the mustard striped walking skirt. The mockup is done for my first shirtwaist, the windowpane check, and the buttons for it are on order. I have a small collection of cravats already; the first hat form has arrived and is ready to trim. 

The bad news is that the sporting basque - heretofore one of my best pieces - is now too small and I need to drop some pounds to wear it again. Also, my red and taupe striped skirt. Hopefully in the next few months. 

The other good news is that I have been in the habit of picking up suitable fabrics when they cross my path on the cheap racks and I have a good collection - the mustard cotton and the beige and taupe cotton are two of those. I was able to get the rust red windowpane check similarly recently. I still have plenty of yardage in my stash; silk for vests and neckwear, the linen for cycling bloomers. Thankfully, 90" wide cotton muslin has been on sale at $6.66/yard. However, I'm finding that I'm spending an inordinate amount of money on the rest of the bits and bobs. I've ordered lace, buttons, broiderie anglaise lawn, patterns, hat blanks, corsetry supplies - mostly from Etsy and some at very reasonable prices. 

The goal is to have two full outfits done by WhimsyCon, the local late March Steampunk/Costuming convention. That's corset, chemise, three petticoats, corset cover  - and then a walking outfit (shirtwaist and neckwear, corselet, skirt) and ballgown (bodice, skirt). I've got Steampunk dress accessories galore, and a couple still arriving. 

I'll start posting regular updates of progress and maybe even some photos, so return regularly to see what I'm up to.