Dress Diary: 1890s Sporting Costume - Concept and resources

Concept

The roles of women were changing with the arrival of the Gilded Age in the United States (and the Belle Epoch in Europe); we were emerging from domestic spheres into the public context. Women were entering the workforce at greater numbers than ever before, were social activists and New Women, and were becoming widely interested in the sporting pursuits that heretofore had been dominated by men. We took up hunting and cycling (a fad of culture-shaking importance) and tennis and swimming. And the highly restrictive clothing of the mid-1800's had to change to accommodate.

The fun part, from the Steampunk point of view, is that the styles are very much in line with the Steampunk aesthetic. Considering that the Steampunk genre features Women of Action - explorers and tinkerers, scientists and airship pirates - our clothing naturally should represent the forms of active lifestyles. This means doffing corsets, adopting shorter skirts, and wearing clothing in which one can climb rope ladders and shoot bad guys.

Nigella in particular is one of these progressive women. Her butterfly-hunting excursions and mountain climbing adventures require a wardrobe of suitable attire. This Dress Diary will detail construction of a wardrobe of interchangeable basques and skirts, accessorized by Steampunk-inspired dress accessories. Since I describe my sartorial approach to this genre as "neo-Victorian", all forms and decoration are based on historical exemplars, and qualify as historically accurate. The dress accessories are where I tend to carry the Steampunk aesthetic.

Pattern and fabrics

Pictures from the pattern envelope

I'm using Laughing Moon's 1890's Sporting Costumes with Leggings  (LM 110) pattern for much of the wardrobe which is a copy of an existing ladies bicycle costume. It is drafted to not require a corset. Although it's true that women continued to wear corsets with sporting clothing, their use was optional, and a number of influential sources were advocating for the more progressive position. I would say that a corset that isn't too restrictive would be fine with this basque.

Eventually I will be using Reconstructing History's Equestrian Skirt (RH 951) pattern to sew a split skirt for this wardrobe.

The basic cycling costume is in process. It is composed of:

• The double-breasted cycling basque (LM 110 basque A) is a 100% cotton print in brown and buff, with dark brown contrasting collar and revers. It has a lovely pleated back. I've changed the buttons arrangement - they're smaller and more in number- and added buttons to the sleeves. I'm thinking about adding some soutache braid trimming to the revers.  

• The basque could from time to time be changed out for my (purchased) shirtwaist and cravat or tie. 

• The skirt is 100% cotton twill, in a medium brown. It is to be lined in the same fabric, although the pattern recommends something slick so as to not hang up on the trousers. 

• The "Turkish" bloomers (LM 110 bloomers B) are made of a lightweight 100% linen tabby that is medium brown with a dark brown pinstripe. 

• Leggings are a light buff leather, fastened with metal buttons. 

• Dress accessories - a straw boater with Steampunk-style fascinator, a leather Steampunk-style corselet with accessories to replace the belt, shoes, a cravat and cravat pin or a "stock collar" - what we would call a "dickey". 

Inspiration

Cycling Suit

1896-1898

How very Steampunk-looking! The Met doesn't say, but I'm going to guess that this ensemble uses wool as the fashion fabric. The split skirt features all those buttons and the pocketed dart detailing will find it's way into future additions to my neo-Victorian wardrobe.

I especially love the pleated peplum back of the basque.

(Click on the photo of these three extant ensembles to go to the museum pages and see other views.)

Cycling Suit

1896

Again with the dart detailing. Again with the wool, and presumably lined in silk. This skirt has pockets (!), and a lovely waist detail that would accommodate changing female sizes.

Women's Bicycling Ensemble

1898

The basque is apparently wool; the skirt is linen.

Love the soutache braid.

A collection of basques and skirts from The Delineator. 1899.

Another page from from The Delineator. 1896 

Next: Making up the cycling basque.