Monday, September 15, 2014

Belle epoch beverage on a budget

A typical Pontarlier absinthe glass, with a reservoir and
faceting. 8 ounces capacity and 5.5" tall. Generally
available at between $16 and $20.  
Really, for a hand-blown - and possibly etched or faceted - authentic absinthe glass, 20 bucks doesn't seem excessive. However, being neither heiress of nor married to an airship magnate, I must set my sights a bit more to the reasonable - and especially when organizing an upcoming absinthe tasting at which a number of guests are expected.

During the heyday of absinthe, the glassware used was somewhat less prescribed than one might think. Barware that was used for absinthe fell into two categories, glasses used only for absinthe and glasses used for both absinthe and other drinks. Additionally, glassware used in bistros was by necessity rather sturdy due to rough use, so light, delicate glasses are not suitable.

Typical styles of general purpose glassware include the Mazagran, the Lyonaisse, and the Chopes Yvonne. All of these are footed forms, with a short and often ornate stem.  The bowl is funnel-shaped, with almost uniformly straight sides that do not narrow at the lip.

A pressed glass or depression glass style of water glass.
The shape is lovely and the oak leaf design will play
nicely with the swirling absinthe.
5" tall and 8 ounce capacity. This glass cost me $.75. 
Of course, as the ritual of absinthe developed, specialized barware became increasingly common. Cordon, reservoir, and Pontarlier glasses all are designed so the correct amount of absinthe - the dose - can be measured into the glass without an intermediary measuring tool. These are elegant, specialized glasses, with a price tag to match. 

Fortunately, the shapes of the old general purpose bistro glasses are still manufactured, usually designated as "water" glasses. Even more fortuitously, stemmed water glasses seem to be superfluous table wares in today's increasingly casual dining habits. The result is that they frequently turn up in thrift stores. And thus I have started building my collection of bar ware suitable for serving absinthe.



This is an okay shape, similar to a Torsade, but without
the twist at the bottom. Arguably a little large at 12
ounces capacity, but I really like the "gem" on the stem;
it's placed nicely for holding. 6.5" tall.
A buck each at the thrift store. 
Here are some glasses that I've picked up recently. Most would fall into the "general purpose barware" category. I'm looking for the typical funnel shapes, between 5" and 7" tall, with a short and sometimes ornate stem. The capacity must accommodate the "dose" and the three to five parts of ice water which is required to release the oils from the alcohol and create the cocktail - so between 4 and 8 ounces.

I've had to make a couple of concessions to modern sensibilities in that many of the available glasses have etching on them in floral patterns. Considering that absinthe is an herbal spirit, it doesn't seem inappropriate.

The glass ball on the stem is not hollow, which is the
only material difference between this glass and the
typical Pontarlier profile. Large capacity
at 12 ounces, 7" tall. 





This glass was the real "find". Not only is it the right shape,
but the bottom of the bowl - up to the top indentation - is exactly an ounce; it may have not been manufactured for absinthe, but it's a reservoir glass. It's 6.5" high and has a 10 ounce
capacity. $2.99 each at the thrift store. 

I think I've got enough, but there are one or two more thrift stores that I haven't yet relieved of absinthe wares. In other thrift store findings, I've picked up a footed crystal flat wide sugar dish and an amber glass vase for holding spoons. But you'll have to come to the tasting to see those. 


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